Monday, November 15, 2010

A Week in New Zealand


While living in Thailand we decided to take advantage of the fact that we were on the other side of the world by taking a vacation to Australia and New Zealand. We figured that we'd never be closer to these places and ought to check them out while we could.  Our 2 weeks in Australia were awesome (click here for our Amazing Australia Trip) and we were looking forward to more amazement during our week in New Zealand. 




Day 1 - Queenstown

Stepping off the plane in New Zealand

After 2 adventure-packed weeks in Australia, we boarded a plane in Sydney and flew for 2 hours to Queenstown, New Zealand.  New Zealand is known for its stunning natural beauty.  As we stepped out of the plane onto the runway, we were shocked to see majestic mountains surrounding the Queenstown airport.  What a grand welcome!

View from our hotel 

Queenstown is a small resort town of 10,000 people located around Queenstown Bay on Lake Wakatipu which was formed by glaciers.  Nestled next to "The Remarkables" mountain range, the city offers absolutely spectacular views of mountains all around.

The beautiful city of Queenstown

We spent our first day walking around the town and taking in the scenery.  Having never lived in a mountainous region, the sheer size and closeness of these mountains were truly a treat that we never tired of seeing.  We had a leisurely lunch in one of the local cafes then spent the afternoon strolling through the beautiful botanic garden.

Camp street, Queenstown, NZ

Queenstown is the unofficial world capital of adventure tourism.  It is the birthplace of commercial bungee jumping and offers the full spectrum of adventure activities from sky diving and snow skiing to whitewater rafting and fly fishing.  We made our way into one of the adventure shops to see what activities we could try out.  After sifting through all the activities we found one that would meet my thrill-seeking needs while not scaring Amber away from participating.  We decided to sign up for the Shotover Jet.  This is a ride in a super fast jet boat in a river with dangerously close rocks and cliffs.  We booked a ride for the next morning and also booked bungee jumping and zip-lining for the following day.

Lake Wakatipu and Queenstown

We spent the rest of the evening relaxing and ended up watching the "Sherlock Holmes" movie at the local cinema.


Day 2 - Queenstown Adventures


The Jet Boat traveling down the Shotover River

We started our day with breakfast at the hotel while enjoying the view of the lake with the mountains behind it.  Next, we made our way into town, checked-in for our jet boat ride, and boarded the shuttle bus that took us to the launch point which was about 10 minutes away.  We were quickly debriefed about the ride and given water proof jumpsuits to wear over our clothing.  As we waited for our turn to board we got to see the sheer awesomeness of what we were about to do. 

Let's do this!

We saw the jet boats whizzing by with screaming passengers narrowly missing the cliff walls, turning on a dime, and quickly accelerating to break-neck speeds.  The 15 passenger boats have 520 horsepower and are propulsed and controlled by two jet units thrusting 200 gallons of water per second allowing it to travel 50 mph in as little as 3 inches of water!  It was finally our turn to board the boat.  I was getting very excited while Amber was getting really worried.

A preview of what we were about to do

Our boat pushed off the pier and we quickly felt the full force of the beast.  We passed under a picturesque bridge and made our way into the canyon.  Here, the river narrowed down to 10-15 feet in width.  The driver made sharp zig-zag turns down the river and we all screamed thinking we were going to hit the cliff walls!

Awesome views from inside the boat

We continued down the canyon until it widened significantly.  We were treated to some g-force inducing donuts and figure 8s.  The driver saved his best trick for last - a body-jarring 360 degree spin at high speed without stopping!  I was screaming for joy while Amber while was screaming for her life!

This picture sums up how we each felt during the jet boat ride!


On-board video of our Jet-boat ride!




We continued our thrill-ride down the river surrounded by unbelievable scenery.  We never stopped screaming and were always fooled into thinking that we were going to hit the canyon walls only to narrowly and suddenly turn away from it.  This was much better than any roller-coaster I had ever ridden!

Stopping at the crepes shop near the gondola
 
Back in Queenstown, we made our way to the skyline gondola.  The skyline gondola is a cable car system that took us 1500 feet up to Bob's Peak.  At the top was a restaurant, observation deck, and summer luge track.

 Looking down at Queenstown from near the top of the Gondola

The views from the top of the peak were simply stunning!  It was easy to see how glaciers carved out the lakes and valleys through the nearby mountains.


The view from Bob's Peak

After a delicious dinner at the hotel, we were picked up by a shuttle van and taken back near the Shotover River to the Onsen Hot Pools facility.  We booked a romantic sunset private hot pool.  Each room contained a large hot tub and a large retractable window that faced the river and surrounding mountains.

 Time to unwind and relax in style

As the sun was setting, we sat in the tub looking out at the beautiful natural scenery, sipping our wine, and eating chocolates.  The weather became cooler after the sun had set, so we closed the large window and enjoyed the view of the stars from the comfort of the tub.

The view from our private hot pool


Day 3 - Bungee Jumping & Wine Country

 A trip to Queenstown wouldn't be complete without a bungee jump.  And what better place to go than the Kawarau Bridge, the world's first commercial bungee jump site.  We skipped breakfast (no need to jump on a full stomach and risk more adventures!), picked up our rental car, and drove to the Kawarau Bridge just outside of town. 

Amber's pre-jump picture on the Kawarau Bridge

The Kawarau Bridge sits 141 feet about the pristine Kawarau River in the picturesque central Otago wine region - a perfect setting for a bungee jump.  We made our way inside the facility, got registered, got weighed, and had our weight written on our hands so that the jump operator would know what length bungee cord to use.  We went outside to the viewing platform and watched a few people make their jumps off the bridge.  It looked so fun and my excitement was building!

Amber's bungee jump off the Kawarau Bridge
 
Even though Amber had already done a bungee jump in Thailand, she was completely terrified to make this jump and only signed up for the jump to prove a point that she wouldn't be outdone by me.  She made her way on the bridge, walked to the jump platform, got fitted with the bungee cord around her ankles, and smiled with the jump operator at the camera.  After a countdown of "3-2-1-jump!", Amber leaped off the bridge feet-first and immediately began screaming.  She screamed the entire way down and briefly paused during the upward rebound only to scream on the way down again.  She continued to scream with each successive downward rebound until she was recovered by the waiting raft below.

Amber being collected at the end of her bungee jump

Now it was my turn.  I hurriedly made my way to the bridge and quickly realized how much higher it was than the viewing platform.  I approached the jump platform and was allowed to be next to jump due to the people in line second-guessing their decision and allowing me to move forward.  The person in front of me enthusiastically made their jump and it was my turn.  The operator strapped the leg harness around my ankles containing the bungee cord and asked if I wanted to jump dry, touch the water, or submerge half my body in the river below.  I opted for the water touch.  The pre-jump pictures were taken and I was instructed to move to the ledge, which required awkward tiny bunny hops due to my ankles being strapped together.

 My first ever bungee jump!

I looked around and admired the beautiful natural scenery all around, but made the mistake of looking down into the river. It was at this point that I first felt fear and panic.  However, it was short-lived because the operator told me to look straight ahead, and began his countdown.  It's amazing how many emotions can occur in 3 seconds and how times I switched from fear to excitement, but I was proud that I didn't hesitate when he said jump.  I leaped off the platform with chest out and arms out feeling like a bird.  The feeling of sheer unobstructed free-falling was for me adrenalin-filled terrifying ecstasy.
 
What a rush!!!

I though it would have felt like peaceful floating. Instead it was faster than I'd ever imagined with the wind constantly pressed against my face rushing noisily past my ears. The free fall was so fast yet seemed to last forever.  I started to feel gravity normalize as I approached the water due to the bungee cord stretching at my ankles. I reached out with my arms to try to touch the water but missed the surface by a mere couple of inches.  The remaining rebounds were fun to experience, but they didn't compare to the initial plunge.  For 10 minutes after the jump my body was shaking due to adrenalin overload.  I was so happy and I wanted to do it again!

Brunch at the vineyard

We decided it was time to get some food to calm our bodies down.  Luckily, the winery next door had a restaurant and we were served a traditional rancher's breakfast in their very scenic outdoor patio.

The Central Otago Wine Region

We spent the afternoon visiting various wineries in the region, cheese shops, and driving through some spectacular landscapes.  The central Otago wine region is located at the floor of ancient glacial valleys and is the most southerly wine region in the world.  Most of the wine produced in the area is Pinot Noir - one of our favorite varietals.

Exploring the amazing New Zealand landscape

After a leisurely day in wine country we returned back to Queenstown, took the gondola back up Bob's Peak, and signed in for our tree-top zip-line eco-tour.

Ready to do some zip-lining

The tour was located in a dense forest on the mountainside filled with large, tall beech trees.  We were equipped with our harnesses at the first station and made our first traverse on the zip-line to another platform a few hundred feet away.  At each platform we learned about the local environment, how to stay 'green', and sustainably.

 Amber's zip-lining descent into the forest 

However, each traverse became longer and longer to the point that we couldn't see the next platform.  We would zip-line blindly into the forest hoping we wouldn't get stuck in the middle and end up at another platform.  The views were great, we were near the tops of 100 ft trees and at times could see Lake Wakatipu and Queenstown a thousand feet below at the base of the mountain.  We ended the tour by making a short hike back up the mountain.  This was a great activity and I looked forward to returning in the future because they were nearing completion of their last zip-line platforms which allows people to zip-line down the entire way down the mountain!

Upside-down and no hands!

A quick video of my zip-lining experience!




Day 4 - Te Anau 

We had a private tour to catch in the town of Te Anau, thus, we started the day by packing our bags, loading the car, checking out of the hotel, and making the 2 hour drive west.  The drive was quite spectacular.  We rode for miles along the twisty and winding mountainside road that hugged the shores of Lake Wakatipu (2nd largest lake in New Zealand).  The landscape became very mountainous and all we could see were stunning peaks and rolling farmland hills as we drove between them in the valleys.  The scenery was so mesmerizing that I lost track of my speed and got pulled over with a speeding ticket!

Awesome scenic drive

Te Anau is a small town on the southwest corner of the southern island of New Zealand.  It is home to about 2,000 people and serves as the gateway to the 5,000 square mile Fjordland National Park which is full of fjords, hiking trails, and mountain ranges.  We arrived in Te Anau in the late morning, parked at the visitor center, put on our hiking boots, and met with our guide.  We walked along Lake Te Anau until we reached the helicopter pad.  We had signed up for the "Heli-hike" adventure - a guided tour that involved taking a helicopter to the top of a mountain, then hiking along the famous Kepler track for 8 kilometers down the 3,000 ft. mountain, through the forest, and taking a boat back to the starting point. 

Our helicopter coming to pick us up

This was our 2nd helicopter ride in as many weeks, and this ride was just as awesome as the first one in Australia.  We lifted off the floating pad from the lake and made our ascent towards the mountains.  We could see grand mountain ranges stretching for miles into the horizon and the rivers and valleys accompanying them.  After a brief tour of some of the mountains and land formations, we landed on Mount Luxmore.

Flying over the mountains

It was beginning to rain, so we put on our provided rain jackets and made our way along the mountain.  At this, point we were above the tree line and could see the Te Anau basin, the nearby lakes and the surrounding Fjordland Mountains. 

The view from Mount Luxmore

After 30 minutes or so of walking we abruptly entered a silver beech forest.  The wet atmosphere, the shade of green of the trees and plants, the moss, and the unique foliage made it seem like we were inside a magical enchanted forest.  I wouldn't have been surprised had we stumbled upon a unicorn or hobbit.  In fact, our guide informed us that parts of "Lord of the Rings" were shot in the adjacent forest.

It felt like we were in "Lord of the Rings"

We took a break in the forest and had lunch.  The guide told us that New Zealand has no snakes or dangerous animals.  Animals that were introduced to New Zealand via humans such as ferrets, rabbits, mice, and weasels were destroying the native species of reptiles and birds.  Thus, there continues to be extensive efforts to trap and eradicate these invasive animals, evident by the mice and ferret traps we saw along the track.

Taking a break in the forest

The last portion of the hike had us walking by towering limestone cliffs, and we finally ended up on the sandy beaches of Brod Bay on Lake Te Anau.  Our waiting boat picked us up and ferried us back to the visitor center.  We checked-in to our beautiful countryside cottage, changed into dry clothes, and took a well deserved nap.  The rest of the day was spent admiring the fantastic scenery and enjoying a dinner at a local restaurant.


Day 5 - Milford Sound

The next morning we hit the road and took the Milford Highway from Te Anau to Milford - dubbed the most scenic drive in New Zealand. This was a tall order considering the amount and quality of scenic driving we had experienced so far in New Zealand, however, I had to agree that this was the most spectacular drive I'd ever done. The first part of the 119 km road was through rolling flatlands, hills, and meadows.

Beautiful meadow lands

We made a stop and crossed a cool suspension bridge over the Hollyford river that led to Humboldt Falls.

A rickety suspension bridge

 
 A stop at Mirror Lakes

As we approached the southern alps the scenery became more mountainous and we entered a great beech forests.  While driving through the towering trees we crossed the 45th parallel - the halfway point between the equator and south pole.  Shortly after, we made a stop at the Mirror Lakes.  On a clear day the lake provides a perfect reflection of the mountains.

Fall's Creek


 Taking a break to enjoy the view

After driving for miles on, around, and between mountains we finally approached Homer's tunnel.  This 1200 meter tunnel cuts directly through a mountain and descends 1 feet for every 10 feet traveled.  We had to wait for the light to turn red because it is only one way during non-avalanche season.  As we exited Homer's tunnel we were met by the stunning Cleddau Valley and it's steep and slow winding roads.


Homer's Tunnel


The winding road through Cleddau Valley

We finally arrived at Milford where we parked our car, walked to the pier, and boarded our tour boat in the light cold rain.  Milford Sound is actually a Fjord (or Fiord) and not a sound.  A sound is a general term for a large sea inlet (larger than a bay), but a Fjord is a long narrow water inlet created by glaciers. This results in spectacular waterways among magnificent mountains.

 Cruising down Milford Sound


 Look at all the waterfalls cascading down the mountain behind us

Milford Sound is one of the wettest places on the planet with an average rainfall of 7 meters (23 feet), and it rains 182 days of the year!  All the rain creates lots of temporary and permanent waterfalls.  The most popular is the Stirling Falls which is 500 feet high.  Our boat came right in front of the base of the Stirling Falls.  It was deafeningly loud and we were soaked by all the mist created.  What an experience!

Approaching the Stirling Falls

We cruised along the fjord looking at countless stunning waterfalls cascading down the steep mountains.  Some of the waterfalls were easily 1,000 feet high and disappeared into the air rather than touching the water below.  We rode all the way out to the Tasman sea and even some a group of seals relaxing on some rocks.

A group of seals on the rocks


It started to storm as we left Milford Sound - quite an eerie sight!

At the end of the cruise we made a stop at an underwater observatory.  We saw the rare 'black' coral (looks white) usually only found in deep waters.  Milford Sound has some interesting marine life because the water is made-up of two layers. Salt water from the ocean makes up the  bottom layer while fresh water from the rain & glaciers makes up the top layer.

Fish swimming around the white colored 'black coral'

We returned back to Te Anau, enjoyed a yummy local Italian dinner, and spent the evening watching a film at the local theater that featured a collection of videos and pictures of Milford sound.


Day 6 - Doubtful Sound

Departing from Manapouri

Our last full day in New Zealand featured an all-day trip to Doubtful Sound.  Doubtful Sound is ten times larger and supposedly more spectacular than Milford Sound.  It also required more traveling to access.  In the morning we made the short drive from Te Anau to Manapouri and made our way to the meeting point at Lake Manapouri.  About 100 of us tourists boarded a double-decked boat that ferried us across Lake Manapouri.  The storm from yesterday had passed overnight, resulting in snow on the mountains and a sunny, clear day.  We made our way to the top deck of the boat and and took in the amazing views of the surrounding snow-capped mountains.

 Our transfer boat at Wilmot Pass

We departed the boat at Wilmot Pass, site of the hydroelectric power station (partly built by Amber's company), and loaded into buses.  We traveled along Wilmot Pass Road snaking through the mountains down into the entrance of Doubtful Sound. 

'Deep Cove' inlet of Doubtful Sound

We reached the inlet of Doubtful sound, known as Deep Cove.  It was a peninsula of water surrounded by steep, lush mountains.  There was a small pier where we boarded our touring boat.  After a quick safety presentation, we began cruising into Doubtful Sound.

 Cruising on Doubtful Sound

After only cruising 15 minutes in Doubtful Sound we spotted a group of dolphins!  In accordance with the law, the boat shut down its engines and we all watched on the outdoor decks as the playful dolphins swam by.  Some of the dolphins were even jumping out of the water!

 
 A group of playful dolphins

Doubtful Sound is one of the largest fjords in New Zealand.  We cruised along the calm waterways for hours and even journeyed out to the much rougher Tasman Sea.  It was an absolutely perfect day to take in the incredible beauty that nature had to offer.

A perfect day with beauty scenery

Similar to Milford Sound, this area receives significant amount of rainfall.  Thus, the mountains are lush with trees, vegetation, and waterfalls.

I'd never get tired of seeing this

However, the soil on the slopes mountain isn't very deep, and the trees are thinly rooted to the mountain side.  If a single tree falls it causes the loosely rooted trees below it to fall, thus, creating a chain reaction of falling trees all the way down the mountain into the water.  The result is a vertical scar of bare mountain as seen in the left side of the picture below.

The bare spot on the mountain was formed by a tree avalanche

It's one thing to look at these great photos, but it's quite another to experience it.  The freshness of the air, serenity of the water, beauty of untouched waterfalls, and closeness of towering mountains forces you to respect and be in awe of nature.  The experience also causes catharsis-like self-reflection of one's life, priorities, and lifestyle. I was ready to drop everything and move to New Zealand!

I love the natural beauty of New Zealand!

Sadly, the tour had to come to a close.  We made our way back to Wilmot Pass and toured the hydroelectric power station before crossing the lake and driving back to Te Anau. We spent the rest of the day walking around Te Anau and enjoying a dinner with live music at a local restaurant.

A Moa  - a huge flightless bird that were local to New Zealand but are now extinct.


Roadside restaurant in Te Anau


Day 7 - Farewell to New Zealand

Our last day in New Zealand was fairly non-eventful as we had a plane to catch to get back home in Thailand.  We made the drive back to Queenstown admiring the amazing landscape one final time.  When we arrived in Queenstown I looked up into the sky and saw people paragliding (gliding with a parachute off the mountain down into the city).  Everyday day while we were in Queenstown I tried to book a tandem paragliding session but was told it was too windy.  Now was the only opportunity to do it, and we are leaving!  Oh well, it's something I can look forward to next time.

Bye-bye to Queenstown and New Zealand

Our week in New Zealand met and exceeded all our expectations.  We were mesmerized by the natural beauty and spirit of adventure of New Zealand.  We sampled just a small portion of what New Zealand had to offer and we wanted more.  We only experienced 1 week in only 2 cities of the Southern Island.  We vowed to return and explore more areas of New Zealand in the future.

This also concluded our spectacular 3 week vacation. We loved every minute in Australia and New Zealand.  We highly recommend these places as a destination to visit at least once in a lifetime.  We were so impressed with these places that we were already planning on how to move there.  Voila!  6 months later, with a lot of determination, some elbow grease, and a little luck we were moving out of Bangkok, Thailand and into Bunbury, Australia (click here to read about our moving experience!).  This trip ended up being an experience-of-a-lifetime in more ways than one!


Thursday, October 7, 2010

Arriving in Australia

From Bangkok, Thailand to Bunbury, Australia

It would be an understatement to say that the move from Thailand to Australia didn't quite go as planned.  Well, the actually moving of our belongings was very efficient, but getting to Australia was a different matter.  However, considering the epic journey I had to take when first arriving in Thailand, I shouldn't be surprised that an equally epic journey would be required to leave Thailand.  During our last week in Bangkok an all-Thai moving crew showed up, meticulously packed our things in boxes, carefully labeled and organized the boxes, and cleaned up their mess all in 2 hours with a smile on their faces.  I gave them a generous tip thinking that this job would have taken a full day (and without smiles) back in the US.  This was the easiest and most straight-forward part of our move to Australia.  It pretty much went down hill from there.


We had about 25 boxes in total for the move

The next day was Amber's last working day in Thailand.  It was also the last day of April and the last day of our Thai work visas, which meant we had to leave the country.  Now that we didn't have work visas, we were considered tourists.  Tourists can enter Thailand and get a 30-day tourist visa at the airport.  Once the 30 days expire you have to exit the country, but you can come right back and get another 30-day tourist visa (known as "border runs").  Once Amber knew that her next project would be in Australia her company initiated the process to apply for our Australian visas.  It had been several weeks since we applied but it was still being processed by Australian immigration.  As part of the visa application, we had to undergo a medical check-up to basically prove we don't have tuberculosis (TB) and other infectious medical conditions.  Australia has a zero tolerance policy with TB and will deny entry to anyone known to have TB.  My exam went fine, but Amber's chest exam had some spots that were questionable to the doctor so he ordered additional testing via an MRI.  Amber being Amber wasn't worried about her own health and the fact that these spots could be TB or some other ailment.  No, she was thoroughly mad and upset that she had to do another procedure and that this whole 'possibly having TB business' would delay and possibly prevent her from going to Australia!  However, based on the results of the MRI, the doctor believed with 99.9% certainty that the spots were just calcium deposits and nothing else.  Later we were informed that Australian immigration would allow her to enter based on these results on the condition that she would do follow up testing once inside the country.  With that crisis averted and behind us, it was now the last day of the month and the last day of our current Thai visas. We were assured that our Australian visas would be approved by the end of the week, but there was no guarantee.  This left us in limbo.  We had to leave Thailand but we couldn't go to Australia yet.

We discussed our options:

1) We could go home and wait for our Australian visas to be approved.  However, we feared that after flying for 24 hours to get to the US, our visas would be ready and we'd have to turn around and fly another 24 hours to get to Australia.

2) We could do a bit of traveling to various countries until our Australian visas were approved.  This was very appealing but if our visas were significantly delayed then we'd end up spending a lot of money.

3) We could take a short vacation then wait out our visa approval at a major city that has a direct flight to Australia.  Bangkok is the ideal choice since it was our home and we can fly direct to Australia, but the city was unsafe and unstable.  It had already been declared in a state of emergency because protesters were occupying and shutting down the city's main business/shopping district while armed army personnel were guarding the streets bracing for an attack.

After much discussion we chose option #3 and decided to spend a week in Cambodia then return back to Thailand, get a 30-day tourist visa, and stay near the popular coastal city of Hua Hin (2 hours away from Bangkok) until our Australian visas were issued.

The week in Cambodia was amazing!  We stayed in the city of Siem Reap.  During our stay we visited the famous Angkor Wat temple and about a dozen other beautiful temples (including the temple where "Tomb Raider" was filmed).  The food was delicious and cheap, and the people were very easy-going.  We even took an ATV tour of the Cambodian country side and visited a couple of orphanages.  The country had been devastated by the Vietnam war and other political events, and it has only recently begun to rebuild.  Tourism is fairly new to the country which means it isn't overdeveloped, it's still very cheap, and the experience is very authentic.  I highly recommend Cambodia as a stop for people traveling through South East Asia.

(click here to see pics of our Cambodia trip!)


Angkor Wat at sunrise

After our trip in Cambodia we flew back to Bangkok, rented a car at the airport and drove to Pranburi.  We booked a room at a local beach resort for a week and planned to relax until our Australian visas were approved.  However, one week turned into two weeks, which turned into three weeks.  We spent our days indulging in the huge breakfast buffet, relaxing by the pool, walking along the beach, using the spa facilities, playing sports in the resort, exploring the city of Hua Hin and nearby areas, and eating cheap Thai food at family owned beach-side bungalows.  I also learned how to kitesurf!

(click here to see more Pranburi Pictures!)

Passing the time with some kitesurfing

Also during this time, the protesters in Bangkok had attacked the government and the army.  Buildings, tires, and cars were burned, some of the city infrastructure was damaged, and people were injured or killed.  We watched the daily local news in shock and horror as our beloved city was being destroyed (and in some cases just a few blocks from where we lived) and also worried that the airport would be shut down as it was 2 years due to protesting.  Using tanks, the government's army finally took control of the situation and ended the conflict. Even after 4 weeks at the beach resort we were still waiting for our Australian visas to be approved!  Apparently, all visa applications submitted for Amber's company had been suspended due to a work visa snag with a previous company employee who was leaving the country.  It was very unrelated to us and the other applicants, but the immigration office chose to not process anything until the snag with the other employee was settled.  We still didn't know when our visas would be approved.  We had stayed at the resort for 4 weeks and we had to leave the country again because our 30-day tourist visas were due to expire!  We now faced the same decision as a month ago.  What do we do and where do we go?  We decided to do the same as before and take a short trip to another nearby country with hopes that our Australian visas would be soon approved.


Low tide in Pranburi

We left Thailand again and spent a long weekend in Penang, Malaysia.  Penang is an island on Malaysia's northwest coast known as a great food destination of the world and having the best street food in Asia.  The food is a fusion of Chinese, Malay, Indian, and Thai cuisine.  There are lots of food markets each with numerous food stalls that each specialize in different dishes.  Similar to Thailand, a plate of food will cost at most $1 USD.  The city has official "food trails" maps and brochures so that tourists can easily find food stalls and food types to meet their tastes.  Even though we only stayed for a few days, we had our fill of the various delicious food.  We also enjoyed visiting a tropical fruit farm and walking through the city of Georgetown with it's picturesque colonial architecture.  However, the best part of the trip for us was getting confirmation that our Australian visas were finally approved!

(click here to see pics of our Penang trip!)


Delicious street-food lunch in Penang

Our flight to Australia was booked and we returned to Bangkok to spend one last day.  The city was in a somber mood and still recovering from the recent clashes.  It was sad to see entire buildings destroyed or partially burned down, police barracks and barbed wire fence yet to be removed, and shops and businesses still closed down.  The surreal moment for me occurred when I passed CentralWorld, the third largest shopping complex in the world.  It is a Bangkok icon and a very popular spot for locals and tourists alike.  The mammoth complex was destroyed and gutted by fire.  This is a place where Amber and I had frequented many many times, yet here it was destroyed and unrecognizable. 


CentralWorld - BeforeCentralWorld - After

Maybe this was all a sign that it was time to leave Bangkok.  We didn't feel up to calling our friends for one last get together as a send off.  It just didn't seem appropriate.  Instead, we had a quiet dinner together near the hotel and talked about what we would miss about Thailand.

Overall, our move to Australia included an 8 week wait for visa approvals, a tuberculosis scare, a trip to Cambodia, a month waiting in Thailand, a trip to Malaysia, and urban warfare in Bangkok.  The next morning we took a taxi to the airport, dropped off our two bags of luggage each that we'd been living on for the past 6 weeks, and boarded the plane for Australia.  7 hours later we arrived in Perth and began a new chapter in Australia.

Wednesday, September 29, 2010

What I'll Miss About Thailand

The Grand Palace

My time in Thailand has come to an end. It has been a drastic cultural, life, and even career change for me. From getting the swine flu and being hospitalized for food poisoning to riding an elephant and snorkeling in the Phi Phi Islands, it has been an unforgettable experience. There are a few things I won't miss about Thailand, but they pale in comparison to all the things I will miss. Here are a few of the uniquely Thai things that I will dearly miss.


THAI FOOD

Thai Dinner at The Blue Elephant

There is no other cuisine like it. Thai dishes always carry a masterful balance of flavors that usually includes 2 or more of the following: spicy, sweet, salty, and sour. From curries and salads to noodles and soups, the variety of Thai food seems endless. The abundance of food is in part to the infinite number of street food vendors. Feeling hungry at midnight? No problem, just walk down the street and buy a freshly cooked dish for about $1 US that will taste better than any Thai dish you've had in the US. Accessible, delicious, and cheap food...what more could you want?! "Cheap beer", you say? Well, Thailand's got that too!

A colorful array of tropical fruit at a local market

The other aspect of Thai food that I will miss is all the tropical fruit. Thai people love to eat and share fruit. I've had the pleasure of reliving my childhood by eating fruits such as custard apples, jackfruit, longan, and coconuts. I've also had the displeasure of smelling and eating durian, but hey, at least I can say I tried it.


Thai cooking class in Bangkok

Fortunately, I took the time to learn how to cook Thai food (read about my experience here). It's really quite easy because for 90% of the dishes a wok is all you need! My concern will be finding fresh Thai ingredients in another country. Before coming to Thailand I didn't know much about the cuisine, but I can say with confidence that it is the best cuisine in the world.


THAI CULTURE


Enjoying the Songkran Festival

Thailand is known as "The Land of Smiles". The Thai people are known for their friendly and respectful nature. Based on my experience, I found this to be overwhelmingly true. In general most Thais live a very simple life compared to western standards, yet they live an optimistic, happy, and appreciative life (I think a lot of it has to do with Buddhism). I had the wonderful experience of teaching English to Thai teenagers and adults. The level of respect they gave to all the teachers and to each other was amazing. The younger students would always formally greet the adult students. All students paid attention and participated in the classroom. Disciplinary problems were a very rare occurrence. I noticed that student discussions and ideas would selflessly focus on their families and friends.

My wonderful and always smiling Thai language instructors

Outside of the language center my Thai friends were always overly nice and randomly offering food. Thia people, in general, like to have a good time and not stress about things. Their laid-back, worry free, happy lifestyle is summed up in the popular phrase, "mai pen rai", which roughly means, "don't worry about it" or "it's ok, no problem". This eastern concept of respect to the family/community was quite refreshing to experience and one that the western cultures could take a lesson from.


THAI SCENERY

One of our private islands near Phi Phi

One of the main reasons people vacation in Thailand is the beautiful beaches. Phuket is perhaps the most well known beach destinations but there are many other just as idyllic places around Thailand. One of the highlights of our stay in Thailand was hiring a private speed boat with crew for a day and island hopping near the Phi Phi Islands. Several times we had an entire island to ourselves, complete with white sand, turquoise water, some tropical fruit, and cheap beer - what more could you want?

Haew Suwat waterfall in Kaho Yai National Park

A highlight was elephant trekking through the jungle, and visiting a silkworm farm to see how Thai silk was made. Another memorable experience was spending the day at local Thai wineries. Then, going to Khao Yai National Park to hike up to some magnificent waterfall, and in the evening seeing monkeys and a spotted Leopard.

Bangkok skyline complete with traffic jam

However, for the more urban types of people, there is the East-meets-West bustling metropolis of Bangkok. This city seems to have everything: traffic, parks, public transportation, ultra-modern shopping complexes, markets, a busy river, temples, the Grand Palace, international cuisine, delicious street food, red light districts, a continually expanding skyline, a large international business district, 7.7 million people, festivals, sports, the monarchy, and politics. There is something for everyone in Bangkok, and similarly there is a Thai landscape that will suite one's need.


THAI LADYBOYS

The ladyboys of the Tiffany Cabaret Show in Pattaya

No experience to Thailand is complete without an encounter with a "ladyboy" ('katoey' in Thai language ), which can vary from a male cross-dresser to a male-to-female transgender person. Thailand is widely known as the transgender capital of the world and performs the most sex reassignment surgery than any other country. It is very common to see ladyboys in Bangkok. Many of them dress ordinarily and live ordinary lives, but others choose to flaunt themselves to the public. For the flamboyant type their hair, skin, and make-up is impeccable. They walk as if constantly on a catwalk with a super-model's gait. They are naturally tall and wear very high-heels to gain even more height. Their clothing and accessories are uber-fashionable and generally accentuate their curves and ample bosoms. Their overall appearance and presence is not that of a typical Thai woman, thus, they really stand out.

Amber posing with a ladyboy

For the unsuspecting foreign tourists, this is their first sight of a ladyboy. Needless to say it can be quite a culture shock! Some people, however, simply think that she is just a very stylish and beautiful Thai woman, after all aren't Thai woman known for their beauty? The realization hits when the ladyboy speaks and a man's voice softly booms out from a very feminine body!

Over time the shock value wears off and it eventually becomes commonplace to see and interact with ladyboys. While in Thailand, I was dragged to see the famous Tiffany ladyboy cabaret show. We took pictures with the ladyboys, and afterward my wife admitted that she felt less of a woman because the ladyboys were much more diva than she could ever be. Even more defeating was that for a few of the ladyboys she honestly couldn't tell that they used to be men! Only in Thailand.


Serenity at Ayutthaya

Thailand is truly a fascinating country. I highly recommend that everybody make a visit to experience the above and more. I am sad to close this chapter of my life. Over the past year and a half while living in Thailand I've met some wonderful people and had some awesome experiences. I sincerely hope to visit Thailand again in the future.

According to Bob Marley, "When one door is closed, don't you know, another is open." The door for Thailand has closed, but I am looking forward to the newly opened door that is Australia. Stay tuned for posts about living in Australia!

Monday, August 30, 2010

Comfort at the Thai Market

It's my observation that we generally live our lives with familiarity and routine. We tend to eat out at the same places, do the same things for enjoyment, hang out with the same friends, etc. This brings us a level of comfort and minimizes the stress of dealing with surprises. However, I think it's good to go out of your comfort zone once in while. The consequences of going off the beaten track may vary from a rewarding experience to an "I'll never do that again!" experience, but in the end you'll likely learn something new about yourself and gain a new life experience in the process.

Kitesurfing in Pranburi, Thailand
A fun getting-out-of-my-comfort zone experience!


I like to continually learn and experience new things in life. I like the sensation of being in a new environment, whether it's mentally or physically, and feeling my way through it, almost as if on an epic journey, until it becomes comfortable. One example of this is learning a new language. If you visit a foreign country for vacation and can't speak the language, it can be very frustrating and unpleasant at times. The journey of unlocking a new language, even just to learn basic conversation, is one that I find amazing. The journey may be more easy or difficult for some than others, but in the end the ability to communicate in another country is pretty cool and rewarding. I went through this journey while learning the basics of the Thai language. It was fun (and frustrating at times) taking Thai classes, doing homework, and trying to speak to the local people. Eventually it became comfortable.

Over time living in Bangkok somehow became routine and comfortable. So I decided to step out of my comfort zone yet again by going to a local Thai food market.

The Food Market on Silom Road

My first introduction to a Thai market was when I took a week long cooking class in Bangkok. Every morning the class began by going to the market as a group. As you can imagine, walking into a foreign food market was quite intimidating. It felt like being in another country within another country. The market was chaotic, hot, and smelly. There were raw meats everywhere, mounds of spices and herbs, tons of fruits and vegetables that I'd never seen before, and shirtless children running around the stalls. All this in the open air in what seemed to be in not-very-sanitary conditions. The cooking instructor would give us a tour and talk about the various foods, then proceed to buy all the ingredients (by speaking Thai) for the day's recipes. By the end of the week I had cooked 25 delicious dishes but I still wasn't fully comfortable at the market. I was ready to start cooking at home but I knew it meant that I'd have to be a big boy and go to the market on my own.

Our instructor showing us the market

First, I had to find the nearest market from home. Luckily, I found one next to the barber shop where I got my hair cut (I would pay $5 U.S. including tip for an awesome haircut and shave! The guy didn't speak any English...we had some interesting broken Thai conversations). Using my trusty bicycle, I made the 5 minute bike ride to the market.

The bicycle ride to the market

Next, I chose which dish I was going to cook for the night - stir fried minced chicken with holy basil. The ingredients I needed from the market were bird's eye chilies, garlic, basil leaves, red chili, fish sauce, and oyster sauce.

Upon entering the market, I immediately noticed that this market was larger than the one from the cooking class but not as busy and it was covered, thus, not too hot inside. The market was laid out with tables or counters where the vendor could lay their wares. There were counters for vegetables, fruit, spices, raw meat, raw seafood, coconut grinding and processing, curries, herbs, canned goods, and packaged goods. To get all my ingredients I stopped at several counters. First was the vegetable counter. Even though I stood out among the all-Thai patrons of the market I wasn't stared at or treated any differently than anybody else. I approached the counter and the elderly Thai woman smiled and we exchanged our hellos in Thai. Unable to determine which basil was holy basil (there are 3 types of basil in Thailand) I asked her which one was holy basil. She happily pointed out the holy basil and even grabbed a plant, tore some leaves and invited me to smell the basil. Yup, it was basil (although I doubt I could tell the difference between the three types by smell). I paid her 5 baht ($0.15) and moved on the the herbs counter. There, a middle-aged Thai man was already helping a customer. I looked at his items and grabbed both kinds of chilies and a clove of garlic. He told me 13 baht, and I paid and moved on. The last stop was at the packaged goods counter where I paid the young Thai woman for a bottle of fish sauce and a bottle of oyster sauce.


Buying veggies and walking around the Suan Phluu market

Before leaving, I decided to go ahead and pick up some green curry paste so that I could make green curry for the next evening. I walked around the market but couldn't find any. An elderly Thai woman noticed my unfruitful searching and asked me what I was looking for. I told her I wanted green curry paste. She directed me to a counter and told the woman there that I was looking for green curry paste, but the woman said she had ran out already. They then directed me to another counter where there were some packaged curry pastes. I didn't know one to choose, so I asked which one was better. They told me both were good, but that one was spicier than the other. I purchased the hotter one, thanked the ladies, and made my way back home with a bag full of Thai groceries.

The entire experience of going to the market by myself was daunting at first. Even though I felt and looked like an outsider, I wasn't treated that way. True to Thai culture, the people there were nice, smiling and very helpful. Absolutely nobody spoke any English, thus, I was forced to practice my basic Thai, but it turned out to be a great way to remember my food vocabulary. The dishes I cooked ended up delicious so I made return trips to the market. Each trip became easier and I felt more comfortable until it became a routine thing to do.

I never imagined that food shopping at a market in a foreign country would become a common fixture of my life, but it has and I'm glad that I ventured to try it out. The feeling of adventure and achievement is quite satisfying and I look forward to more such endeavors. Have you ventured beyond your comfort zone lately? Try it out, you might be surprised at what happens!