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(Sunset at Tallow's Beach near Byron Bay, New South Wales)
Bye bye pretty beaches of Australia....China here we come! |
After numerous postponements and extensions, Amber’s company
finally confirmed a final date of employment for her assignment in
Bunbury. Even though we knew that the
next project would be in China we had no idea when we would actually relocate because it is a 4 to 8 week time frame to complete the process of getting
a Z-class working visa. We started the visa application process a
month before moving out of Bunbury by getting our medical examination completed
in Perth. The process included updating
our vaccinations, which meant receiving 4 injections covering 8 vaccines
(Diptheria, Tetanus, Pertussis, Polio, Hepatits A & B, Typhoid, Japanese
Encephalitis). I don’t have issues with needles or shots, but one of those
shots pretty much deadened my arm within minutes of the injection and rendered
it useless for the next 2 days! Ouch.
We were told that while the visas were being processed, we
would be living in Brisbane, Australia – the Australian headquarters for
Amber’s company. Due to the short, 1-2
month stay in Brisbane the company would not allow us to move all of our
belongings from Bunbury to Brisbane, then have it all shipped to China.
Instead, we had to pack essential items to bring with us to Brisbane for our
1-2 month stay and leave everything else in storage in Perth. Once our Chinese
visas are approved the items in Perth would be air freighted to us in China.
Thus, when we moved to Brisbane we only had a few bags with us plus our
exercise and tennis gear, and my guitar equipment.
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Our tiny Brisbane apartment |
Upon arrival in Brisbane, we were a bit disappointed because
we found ourselves booked into a very small 1-bedroom hotel. There was barely
enough room to set down our luggage! Upon further inspection of the room, I was more disappointed because the cooking area was equipped with
an electric stovetop (cooking is so much easier with gas). Meanwhile, in the
bathroom I heard Amber shriek, “eeww!” No, she hadn’t seen a spider or cockroach. She was horrified that the bathroom was
equipped with a tiny shower and tub combination (it’s all about having a
separate shower and tub, or just a shower). Geez, we do seem to be snobbishly
spoiled with these complaints! We really couldn’t nit-pick the place too much
as it was fully paid for by the company, including utilities, and it was
located right in the heart of the city, near Amber’s office. It would be home
for the next 2 months.
Brisbane is a city of over 2 million people located on the
east coast of Australia in the state of Queensland. Like most Australian
cities, it is modern with well-preserved, beautiful colonial buildings and
sites. The cultural and music scene is exceptional, the public transportation
is good (including the river ferries), and it is consistently within the top 20
most livable cities in the world. Although we loved living in Bunbury, it was a
bit refreshing to live in a proper city again.
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The Story bridge and part of downtown Brisbane |
To keep myself busy for the next 2 months I spent my time
doing various activities which included: participating in an African drumming
class, taking capoeira classes, running along the Brisbane River (and doing the
Bridge-to-Brisbane 5k run), working out at a very nice gym downtown, playing
tennis, taking private Mandarin lessons, and taking our laundry to the
Laundromat. Out of all these activities the most interesting was the weekly
trip to the Laundromat.
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Chinatown in Brisbane |
The Laundromat is located in Chinatown, which is 2 blocks
from the hotel. They offer a full laundry service where they wash, dry, and fold
your clothes. On my first visit I met the owner - a short, middle-aged, Asian
woman that spoke English quite well. She was wearing a touristy shirt from
Bangkok so I asked her, in Thai, if she was from Thailand. She was surprised
and delighted that I could speak Thai and answered that she was Thai. We had a
brief conversation in Thai before switching back to English (without much
practice my Thai isn’t as good as it used to be). Her name was Apple and she was married to an
Italian. They’ve lived in Brisbane for over 10 years running the Laundromat. It
was near closing time, so I’d have to wait until the next day to pick up the
clothes. When I returned the next morning the clothes were ready, and, to my
surprise, she gave me a plate of Thai food (an entire fish, cooked and seasoned!) wrapped up
for me to take home. Without fail, every Thai person that I meet, both in
Thailand and abroad, has always given me Thai food. It pleasantly surprises me
every time. Every week for the next 2 months I took our laundry to the same laundromat and every week she
had a new dish of food or fruit for me to take home. We’d chat about Thailand,
Australia, Amber’s job as an engineer, her daughter’s job as an engineer, and
where to buy good Thai food and fruit in Brisbane. I was sad to say goodbye to
her, and gave her 2 bottles Australian wine for all the food she’d given me.
Sunshine Coast
Another nice feature of Brisbane is that it’s near some
major Australian tourist hotspots. The first one that we visited was the
Sunshine Coast. Located 100km north of Brisbane, the Sunshine Coast is a
collection of towns and beaches along the coastline that is popular as a
holiday and surfing destination.
The first stop of our daytrip was the Ginger Factory in
Yandina, which turned out to be a small ginger-themed complex. It contained
shops selling food and snacks containing ginger, a café, an ice cream shop, a
honey shop, stations chronicling the history and processing of ginger, a nature
walk, and a gift shop. The ginger ice cream was quite yummy!
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Checking out the Ginger Factory |
The next stop was Nutworks, which was located across the
street from the Ginger Factory. Nutworks
is a macadamia processing factory and chocolate factory. Macadamia nuts are
local to Australia, and nearly 50% of of the world’s macadamia nuts are
produced in Australia, which has more than 13 million trees. Ferdinand von
Mueller first described the macadamia genus, and he named the nut after his
colleague, John Macadam. We bought some macadamia-based snacks and munched on a
delicious macadamia chocolate tart. We were also eyeing the kiddie ride at the
front of the shop – who wouldn’t want to ride in a jeep with a kangaroo, wombat
and, koala?
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Hop in mate! |
The next destination was the well-known area called Noosa. The
Noosa River flows into the Coral Sea at the beach town of Noosa Heads. As we drove towards Noosa Heads we saw the
river inlet lined with mansions, complete with their own private beach for
a backyard and dock for their boat. The beach section of the town was packed
with people and it took forever to find a parking spot. We strolled along the
main street, which contained shops, restaurants, and a few hotels. We also walked
along a very nice beach. Noosa Heads was certainly nice, but we weren’t overly impressed, as it
appeared to be overdeveloped, cramped, and had way too much people for our
liking – and this was the winter low season. Apparently, people from Sydney and
Melbourne come here just for the weekend as a getaway. I really don’t see why
because based my experience all beaches in Australia are equally fantastic and,
while this beach is fantastic in it’s own right, it didn’t merit itself to be
above and beyond the norm. I can only guess that the prestige of Noosa adds to
the allure.
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A Noosa Heads Postcard |
We continued our trip by driving south along the coast and
stopped at a few other beach towns including Sunshine Beach, Castaways Beach,
Peregian Beach, and Coolum Beach. They were much smaller than Noosa Heads and they weren't crowded with too many people. It reminded us of living in Western Australia –
beautiful beach towns with hardly any people, if any, on pristine beaches. We
finished our daytrip by having an early dinner at a café at Coolum Beach while
enjoying the ocean view.
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Sunshine and beach - a great combination! |
Gold Coast
Two weeks after our Sunshine Coast daytrip Amber decided to take 2 weeks of vacation so we decided to
visit the other major tourist area near Brisbane, Gold Coast.
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A view of the Gold Coast |
The city of Gold
Coast is Australia’s 6th largest city with half a million people.
The name of Gold Coast’s most well known suburb is Surfer’s Paradise (yes, the
surfing is good here). There are numerous high-rise apartment and hotels along
the beach in Surfer’s Paradise, a nice promenade along the beach, and a large
shopping complex. We stayed at a very funky hotel that served excellent tacos
– yum!
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Welcome to Surfer's Paradise |
The highlight of the Gold Coast was the whale-watching trip.
This was our first whale watching tour and we didn’t know what to expect. We boarded the boat in the morning on a pier on the Nerang River and made our way towards the sea. We could see beautiful houses and marinas along the river, including Jackie
Chan’s house and another with a helicopter pad. We got to the open sea, rode out to the sighting area, and within
minutes we saw our first humpback whale in the
distance!
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The obligatory whale tale picture |
The captain explained that once we sight a whale he'll try to drive the boat to where it will next surface, which can take 2-10 minutes. However, there is a law that boats can't drive within 100 meters of a whale, but whales can swim up to a stationary boat. For the first 30
minutes we would see a whale in the distance, chase it, wait for it to surface again without luck, but see another whale in the distance and chase that one. During the 3rd or 4th time of the cat and mouse game, a
group of 3 or 4 whales surfaced right next to the boat. The captain picked the perfect spot for their surfacing and the whales were literally a few foot
away from boat!
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The pod of whales right next to the boat (2 surfacing, 1 about to surface) |
They were massive and seemed to glide effortlessly in the water.
They seemed to be curious or playful as they surfaced several
times around the boat. The pod split off and we tried to follow them, but it
was to no avail. The rest of the tour was much like the beginning, spotting whales at medium distances but no more close encounters. Overall, it was a great
experience to learn about the whales and to see them up close.
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2 whales coming up for air |
Byron Bay
The rest of the vacation was spent relaxing in the
seaside town of Byron Bay, located in the state of New South Wales.
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Cape Byron |
Byron Bay
is known for its relaxed and easygoing spirit. Events held at Byron Bay include
music festivals, yoga retreats, pagan gatherings, and film and writer’s
festivals. We spent our time lazy about, checking out the lighthouse (which
happens to be the Eastern most point on the Australian mainland), checking out
the beaches, and even getting in a game of tennis.
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The Cape Byron Lighthouse |
Our final day of the trip was spent driving through the
little villages near Byron Bay. First we drove along the coast and stopped at a
lookout to see a surf reserve at Lennox Head.
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Preserving Surf Habitats |
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A view of the Surfing Reserve and the village of Lennox Head |
After driving through a few villages in the hills we stopped
for lunch at a Pecan farm. The pecan pie and pecan cheesecake were delicious!
We made a quick stop in Bexhill to sew one of the world’s
few open-air cathedrals.
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Bexhill open-air cathedral |
Our final stop was in the legendary village of Nimbin. Nimbin
is a tiny village of 350 people and is an Australian icon for hippies and
marijuana use. In 1973 the village held the Aquarius Festival (a big hippie
festival) and some of the participants decided to stick around, form
cooperatives, and live an “alternative lifestyle”.
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The main street of Nimbin |
It’s said that you can’t walk around the main
street in Nimbin without being offered marijuana, and we weren’t disappointed!
We were offered marijuana in the Nimbin museum and out in the open as were
walking along the shops.
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A public notice posted at the entrance to the Nimbin Museum |
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Checking out the hippie history in the Nimbin Museum |
After 7 weeks in Brisbane our Chinese visas were finally
approved. We spent the last days selling the car (I’m gonna miss that car!),
packing, and enjoying the Brisbane festival. It’s been a great 2 ½ years in
Australia and we sincerely hope to be back in the future. One chapter of our
lives was coming to an end, and a new and exciting one in China is about to
begin. Here we go!
(Click here to view all of our Australia East Coast Pictures)